Brenda and I have been dazzled by the wonderful fabric combinations some of you are using. It’s makes us think we could make these blocks over and over again in a myriad of fabrics and never tire of looking at them.

There are four blocks to make this time.

Block 25

Use this hand piecing tutorial to construct Block 25 and you’ll be done in no time at all. Press the center seam allowances in a circular rotation and your center will lay nice and flat.

Block 26

Block 27

Block 28

Block 27 is our most challenging applique block so far. I thought it would be a good time for some extra information on back basting and needle turn applique techniques. I’ve become a big fan of a technique called Back Basting. If you’ve never tried it I encourage you to give it a whirl. There’s a complete photo tutorial listed under Instructions in the sidebar.
I’ll include some photos here of the block we’re working on but the instructions in the tutorial are the ones to use. You can also watch the Skillbuilder video below on needleturn applique if you’d like to learn more about the tools I use and how I do some of my stitching.

The applique pattern comes printed on four pages of paper. You’ll need to tape them together to create a master pattern.

Trace the design on wrong side of background fabric.

You can always use a light table if you can’t see through your fabric.

Using the drawn stitching lines, baste applique fabric in position.

I still feel more comfortable with a line to follow when doing my applique so I mark on top of my basting.

Cut out around your basting adding a generous 1/8″ seam allowance.

Clip the seam allowance on inner curves.

Stitch to where leaf and plume pieces need to be separated.

Using a pair of sharp embroidery scissors cut down between the basting to divide the pieces for applique.

A completed leaf and plume corner.

Reverse applique diamonds. If you don’t like reverse applique you can cut diamond shapes and applique them on top. Your block will be beautiful either way!

I didn’t have my large square ruler with me so I cut a square of freezer paper the size I needed to trim my block to. I marked the quarters on the paper and on my block, matched them up and ironed the freezer paper to the block. I used my rotary cutter and ruler to trim away the excess.

There are instruction in this set of patterns to put together Section A of the quilt. We included lots of pictures instead of numbers so you shouldn’t have any trouble arranging the blocks.

It’s fun to see some of the sections sewn together.

We can’t wait to see how your blocks look! Click on the link below to get your blocks and section assembly instructions.

Just Takes 2™ Blocks for April 1 – Click here

Okay, I heard that gasp all the way over here in Michigan! We don’t want you to be nervous or intimidated. We have step by step instructions for you.

 Block 19

I changed the red center on this block to white and added redwork embroidery. If you’ve never made a Feathered Star block this will be a great learning experience. It’s a 15″ block so the pieces are small enough to be delicate but large enough so you don’t feel too overwhelmed. If you’re in love with some of the embroidery on my block (which we hope you are) there’s an Optional Redwork Embroidery Pattern you can purchase as a digital download HERE. There are 14 designs to choose from and they’re sized perfectly for the squares and triangles in this block.

• Take your time! I can’t stress this one enough. Work slowly and you won’t have any trouble putting this together.
• If your fabrics have a soft feel to them I suggest using Magic Sizing or some spray starch on them before cutting your pieces. I like Mary Ellen’s Best Press Clear Starch Alternative 16 Ounces-Lavender Fields. It’ll make a big difference in the stability of your fabric pieces when working on this block.
• Make sure you’re sewing an exact or slightly scant 1/4″ seam.
• Press seams open where suggested in the instructions. I know this goes against almost everything we’ve ever learned but trust me it helps.

There are some additional tips on the pattern sheets and here are a few pictures I took while sewing my block.

 Block 20

 Block 21

 Block 22

If you fall in love with Feathered Stars you might want to check out the pattern for the Feathered Star Redwork Wall Quilt in the Online Store.

*** We have found an error on the foundation patterns for the Flying Geese on Blocks 20 & 22. The beak of the last goose has fallen 1/4″ so the angle is incorrect on pieces A14 and A15!

The pattern file has been corrected…….

Just Takes 2 Blocks for March 1 – Retired Click here to purchase

Remember…….this time you need to visit the Dear Jane web site to get your blocks. It’s also the last day to take advantage of the Sweetheart Sale on Beyond The Cherry Trees.

Just Takes 2 Blocks for February 15 – Click here to visit Dear Jane

The pattern was presented in three parts and you’ll find a link to each one below –

If you’re a quilt maker looking at the corner of this quilt wondering how the borders were added you notice the seam running parallel to the edge of the quilt and immediately conclude the borders weren’t mitered. Not seeing a second seam indicating the addition of a corner square you’d surmise border strips sewn to each side and then to the top and bottom of the quilt.

Surprise, surprise, not with the Cherry Trees quilt! This quilter never ceases to amaze me. I haven’t seen applique borders on an antique quilt like this before. Have you? – Please share the story.


The borders were sewn to the center blocks counter clockwise in a log cabin fashion.



Fabric requirements and cutting instructions are given for adding the borders in a traditional way with the side borders added first and then the top and the bottom. If you want to work with the partial seams you’d need to construct the borders like the original quilt don’t forget to adjust your cutting measurements to allow for this in the length of the border strips you cut. I will admit this method might give you a bit more freedom for design because you could complete the applique on the strips before sewing them to the center and just cut off the ends without regard for how the design stops at the end of each side. I have trouble with circles that aren’t perfectly round so I’m going to need a bit more structure to my method.

This month’s pattern is for the Right Side Border Strip. It was such fun to follow along the vine and find all the hidden treasures quilted in the peaks and valleys of the vine.

Working on these blocks is great fun but missing my Grand Rapids stash yesterday got me to thinking about the place where I come from.The city had been getting a bad rap in the press by a national magazine and people decided to take a stand against those unfavorable comments. The now infamous Grand Rapids LipDub was filmed earlier this year and set a world record on YouTube.

Grand Rapids LipDub

I’m not in the video but it’s filled with lots of familiar faces and places that have been part of my life for longer than I want to admit. They’re preparing to film a LipDub here in Traverse City. With local resident Michael Moore’s Film Festival leading the way anything is possible. Clutch and I are watching.

Midget Block 119 is a real cutie and fun to make. I used a variety of techniques quite unlike the way the original block was constructed but it seemed a lot easier to me. I’ve given you instructions for cutting triangles, squares and rectangles you piece together to cut your applique shapes from. I used a small machine stitch (1.80 on my Bernina) like you’d use for foundation piecing.

I like to use back basting when doing my applique and here you can see the outer petals basted on my red and white block. I trim the seam allowance down to almost 1/8″ on these small blocks. If you’ve never tried back basting you really should give it a try. It’s my technique of choice and I’ve tried them all! I made a little tutorial for you a while back.

This is not what you want to see on the back of your block when you’re trimming the seam allowance away!

This is better……..new piece of background, basting done, seam allowances trimmed and ready to applique.

The triangles are machine pieced and sewn together in a faux quilt block that’s back basted in place for applique. I didn’t use as many fabrics in my red and white block as were used in the block from the quilt.

Here’s my red and white block.

And the block from the quilt.

Click on the text for today’s pattern

Midget Block 119

Almost every manufacturer offers the fabric used in these quilts, each with their own name, but it’s all basically the same. I’ve bought pieces here and there over the last several years using them in different ways.

Clutch’s boutique blanket was just scrap cuts of baby colors sewn together to make about a 40″ squares. I backed it with a piece of just one color.

He has quite a few cuddle quilts that are cotton fabric on one side and cuddle fabric on the other.

How many is quite a few? There’s four that I can think of. This is Christmas morning and we’re laying on one and covered up with another.

I think his favorite right now is his mint chocolate chip cuddle.

It matches his mint chocolate chip donut bed. From the minute I finished making it he’s called it home. His love for the green and brown is what prompted me to choose this that color combination when I bought my kit at Lolly’s to make an adult size cuddle quilt. They are 60″ x 72″.

Aside from this kit there really isn’t much you need. I purchased soft Warm and Natural quilt batting. It was available by the yard so I could buy just what I needed for my quilt. You’ll need a can of 505 Basting Spray too.

The first think you need to do is cut the wide strips in your kit in half.

Stack them up and gently carry them outside. Yes, outdoors is best, hopefully it isn’t a rainy day. You can tell my the lack of green grass that spring isn’t quite here yet but the sun is shining today.

Shake those babies out good and pile them back up. Remember, once you shake them, they won’t let off fuzz again so your quilt studio will stay nice and clean.
As I was writing directions I got curious about how others were making cuddle quilts and did an online search. There’s lots of great information out there! So much in fact that I came across a set of video tutorials that matched almost exactly the way I make my cuddle quilts. With all the quilting we want to do there didn’t seem any point in me trying to reinvent the wheel so instead I’m going to direct you the wonderful series of videos from portersonline. Each one takes you step by step through the process. I’ve added notes on things I wanted to be sure you knew about.

Cuddle Quilt Tutorial – Part 1
This first video talks about your supplies and things that will make your cuddle quilt easier to sew.

Cuddle Quilt Tutorial – Part 2
The second video talks about attaching the backing to the batting. In the video they spray the 505 adhesive on the batting. I prefer to spray my fabric instead. I think it adheres better and the spray doesn’t get lost down in the batting fibers.

Cuddle Quilt Tutorial – Part 3
The third video talks about marking the center of your quilt and attaching the first row. Marking the center is important especially if you’re using a stripe backing like I am. Make sure to use either a washout marking pen or a permanent pigma marker on your batting. You don’t want anything to bleed color when you wash your quilt.

Cuddle Quilt Tutorial – Part 4
The fourth video talks about sewing the rows. You can see how you’ll need to roll up the excess part of the quilt just like you do when machine quilting in order to maneuver it through the machine.

Cuddle Quilt Tutorial – Part 5
The fifth video talks about adding more rows.

Cuddle Quilt Tutorial – Part 6
The sixth video talks about trimming. When she talks about trimming off 1/4″ of the seam allowance, she’s actually trimming away 1/4″ of the selvage edge on the backing along the sides of the quilt.

Cuddle Quilt Tutorial – Part 7
The seventh video is Part One of binding with minkee cuddle fabric. There are some wonderful tips for binding your cuddle quilt using the minkee cuddle fabric. Trust me, watch before you cut your binding!

Cuddle Quilt Tutorial – Part 8
The eighth video is Part Two of binding with minkee cuddle fabric. Sew your binding around the all edges of your quilt before you stop and finish any of the corners.

Cuddle Quilt Tutorial – Part 9
The ninth video is Part Three of binding with minkee cuddle fabric.

I hope you have lots of fun making cuddle quilts. My only word or warning is they’re addictive! I know you won’t be able to stop at just one.

It’s no secret to anyone who attends the retreat with me that I love, love, love to go shopping. It’s an art my Mother was careful to cultivate in me from an early age and I took to it like a duck to water. The photo above was taken inside Rebecca Haarer Arts & Antiques. I’ve taken quite a few pictures over the years but it’s one of my goals to feature Rebecca’s store in a video similar to what I’m sharing today. Official information for her store lists - Wide variety of antiques, American and locally Amish made quilts, rugs, dolls and furniture. Misc. antiques. Christmas ornaments. Quality handmade artisan goods. Those of us who shop there know it’s so much more! You also have Rebecca herself who is a treasure trove of information when it comes to antique quilts and the wonderful community she lives in. Be sure to watch next week for her video. Until then, if you have any questions about the shop you can call (260) 768-4787.

I filmed these videos of some of my favorite shopping places at the retreat in November. I planned to edit and upload them as soon as I finished cooking Thanksgiving dinner so they’d be online for the holiday shopping season. I didn’t plan on Mom falling out of bed, breaking a bone in her face. That took me right to Christmas and was followed by her passing away in January. Needless to say, the videos stayed tucked away on my iPhone until a couple of weeks ago.

Guess what? I need video lessons or practice or both! I have major notes to self for next week’s trip.

• Turn your phone sideways or leave it upright (I’ll figure that out) so we don’t have to watch skinny videos
• Don’t smack your lips when you talk (didn’t my Mother tell me that?).
• Learn to glide when you walk.
• If you get winded, stop talking.
• If you stop and have a conversation with someone it’s going to be on the video.
• Learn how to edit a video or pay a child to do it!

What can I say? I’d rather make quilts so what you see is me learning as I go along. Truth is – I do this because I love it. I adore Shipshewana. It’s my Traverse City to the south. I’m not asked to do this. I don’t get paid and I don’t have a financial stake in any of the places I tell you about except to say these folks are my friends and I want to honor the great job they’re doing while sharing what I think is some pretty cool stuff with all of you so……………

Our first stop is all about the quilter’s heaven we call Lolly’s

A quick trip to the lower level finds us at the Cuddle Corner where Lolly’s is “making the world a softer place”. If you don’t have a cuddle quilt trust me, you’re missing out on something just wonderful. Join Clutch and I for a tutorial on Friday.

Lolly’s has an entire store devoted to their sale items. We all love to go fat quarter fishing in the boat at the front of the store. Take a look inside A Little Bit of Lollys -

A new addition on the last trip was A Stitch In Time. Do you knit? Do you have a quilt top you’d like to have machine quilted? This is for you.

Our last stop is at Sarah Davis Ltd. I’ve watched this wonderful shop evolve over the last few years into a must stop shop for not only the fashionista but the fashionista wanna-be too. Joanna and her staff have done their homework and brought the best trends in fashion to Shipshewana!

Clutch and I are working on a tutorial for the cuddle quilts. It should be available on Friday so if you want to quilt along, give Lolly’s a call and have them send you a kit. I’m working on one of the 60″ x 72″ quilts made of horizontal strips.

Rosie – Wild Rose Needlebook

Here’s what you’ll need -

• 4″ square of tightly woven cotton fabric for the face. I used a cream color Southern Belle cotton
• 4″ square of fabric for her bonnet
• Two 6″ squares of felt or felted wool for the outside of flower
• One 6″ square of felt or felted wool for the inside of the top piece
• One 6″ square of felt or felted wool for the inside of the back piece
• Permanent pigma marking pens: brown, black, green or blue for eyes and pink or red for lips.
• About 7″ of 1/2″ wide gathered lace or other trim for bonnet
• #8 perle cotton or embroidery floss to compliment outside wool color
• #5 perle cotton or embroidery floss for ear buds
• Freezer paper and basic sewing supplies
• Pattern sheet – download it – HERE

Trace the 2 1/2″ circle on your face fabric.

Using a light box or other light source, center the face fabric over the flower pattern and pin in position.

Using your brown pigma pen, trace the outline of the hair.
Trace the outline of the eyes and make nose dots.
Using your pink or red pigma pen, trace outline of lips.

Using your pink or red pigma pen, fill the lip area with color.
Using your brown or black pigma pen, fill in the hair sections with color.
Using your green or blue pigma pen, fill in the color area of the eyes.

Using your black pigma pen, draw a tiny circle in each eye pupil.

Fill in the pupil area around the circle. Make sure you don’t fill the circle in – this is what gives the little face it’s character.

Each little face is different. I did the demo one in a hurry. I like this little lady better – so take your time and don’t be afraid to toss one out and make another if you don’t like the way it looks.

Trace the bonnet shape on the dull side of your freezer paper. Cut out the shape on the drawn line. Iron (no steam) the shiny side down on the right side of your bonnet fabric.

Cut out right next to the paper on the upper edge and a scant 1/4″ away from the inside edge. Clip seam allowance on inside curve for applique.

Cut out the face circle on the traced 2 1/2″ circle line. Pin the bonnet fabric to the face circle matching the upper raw edges of bonnet to face circle.

Applique the inside curve of the bonnet to the face fabric. After I finished my applique, I decided black hair would look better with my bonnet so I used the black pigma pen and colored over the brown pen. I accentuated the curls a little bit and like this look better. You can always go from brown hair to black but not the other way around……….

Baste around the upper edge of bonnet to hold it in place.

Turn under a scant 1/4″ around the outside edge.

Baste to hold in position.

Pin your trim to the back side of the prepared face tucking the ends to the wrong side where the bonnet ends. Yikes, that blended dye job on her hair is scary! I need to work in better light and she needs a touch-up!

Trace the flower donut shape on the dull side of your freezer paper, including the dashed stitching lines. Cut out around the outside edge and cut out the inner circle.

With your iron on a wool setting and no steam, iron the shiny side of the freezer paper to the right side of the wool square for the front of your needlebook. Note that I said ‘iron’ and not ‘press’. The freezer paper will adhere easily and you don’t want to flatten your wool by pressing too hard.

Cut out your wool piece around the outside edge of the freezer paper. Because of the thickness of the wool don’t try to pivot your scissors at the deep inner points. Just cut in a flowing line around the shape and we’ll take care of those bits of cleavage in a minute. My favorite scissors for this are the cute little Elan embroidery scissors in the photo. They have a fantastic feel in your hand, are sharp as a razor right to the point, they’re serrated for precision cutting and never seem to get dull. If you can’t find them in your local quilt shop – call Lolly’s Fabrics to order a pair.

Because I’m left handed my pictures probably look backwards to you if you’re right handed. Don’t worry the principal is the same going in either direction. Once you’ve gone around the outside of the shape, go back and cut in the reverse direction nipping out the pivot points. It works like a charm.
Do not cut out the center circle – Rosie needs a place for her face!

Lay the prepared face on top of your wool front lining up the bottom tip of her lips with the mark indicated as the chin position on the pattern piece. Poke a pin through the wool at the chin position point so you’ll be able to get the face in the right place on the wool after the freezer paper is removed.

Pin the face wrong side down, on the right side of wool flower front lining up the tip of the lips with the pin you placed in the wool. Applique around the entire circle using tiny hem stitches. I worked with a single strand of ivory #100 silk thread. I didn’t have to change thread colors when I got to the bonnet fabric area. The ivory silk was fine.

Using the same freezer paper flower shape we’ve been working with, cut out the inside front, inside back and back of the needlebook. Make sure you keep in mind the right and wrong sides of the pieces when ironing the template to your fabric so you’re wool pieces will match when layered together. It needs to be reversed on some of them.

1. Iron the pattern to the right side of the front.
2. Iron to the wrong side of the inside front.
3. Iron to the right side of the inside back.
4. Iron to the wrong side of the back.

I used a white chalk pencil to mark the detail lines on my wool. Referring to the pattern, I just marked them by eye. If you want to be more precise you can cut along each of the dotted lines on the pattern. Lay the pattern on top of your flower and lift each ‘petal flap’ up to mark next to the edge of the freezer paper on your wool. It really doesn’t have to be exact. No two flowers are alike so take a deep breath and just draw.

Using the a single strand of #8 perle cotton, embroider along the detail lines using a small backstitch. I started at the inside of the flower and worked to the outside edge taking my last stitch right around the raw edge and securing the thread on the wrong side.
Using a single strand of #5 perle cotton, make a French or Colonial knot at the ends of the bonnet for little earring buds. Sewing a bead there would be cute too.

Place the inside back and needlebook back wrong sides together matching raw edges. You can pin these pieces together or use little dots of basting glue around the outside edges keeping the glue at least 1/4″ from raw edges. Using a single strand of #8 perle cotton, blanket stitch around the outside edge of needlebook back.

Prepare the inside front and needlebook front in the same way you did the back. Blanket stitch around the outside edges.

Pin the needlebook front and back together at the top petal.

Using the #8 perle cotton, whip stitch the front and back together by weaving through and around the blanket stitching on the outside edges. I stitched from pin to pin and then back again to make sure it was nice and secure.

Here she is like a breath of springtime.

You can store your needles on the inside of both the front and back. They’ll be protected and ready to use.

I hope you’ve enjoy making Rosie. Be sure to check out the Felted Wool Tutorial if you want to prepare woven wool, wool sweaters or thrift store finds for use in a project like this.

In the next couple of weeks I’ll put Rosie’s tutorial in a PDF format for you so you can download a copy and save it to use again.

If you haven’t signed up for the newsletter, take a minute to do that. Yesterday’s newsletter had a coupon for FREE SHIPPING in the Online Store to celebrate National Quilting Day. The discount code NATQLT can be used until the end of March. I have since found the shopping cart I’m using isn’t set up to offer free shipping. Drat! What’s the matter with them? It’s something that’s done all the time? Can you tell I’m not happy about this? My solution for this promotion is this; the discount code will take 25% off your entire order. If that amount doesn’t cover the shipping charges I will refund the difference when the order is willed. Not perfect but some of you will save more than the free shipping would have been and everyone else will be reimbursed for what the discount didn’t cover. I’ll do better next time.

You never have to worry about shipping costs for patterns purchased in the Stitch It Today – Digital Design Store. They’re all instant downloads. Just add the patterns you want to the shopping cart, make your payment and you’ll receive a link to download the patterns. An email is also sent to you with the links included. If you are a Sentimental Stitcher Member, all of the patterns in the Digital Design Store are already included in the Members Only Section for free. The print patterns remain in the Online Store. It’s getting confusing I know…………I’m working on that.

Tomorrow is the first day of spring. The new embroidered Spring Into Summer Quilt begins. Download the fabric requirements and get your first block. The weekly series will run until the first day of fall in September. Beat the heat working on lightweight embroidered quilt blocks.