So Sew Easy Schlep Bag – Part 6


We are getting to the home stretch here. How many of you are laughing at me and saying "You can't make this bag in a couple of hours". Yes, you can make the bag in a couple of hours but let me tell you, you can't write a tutorial that fast. Dang - it's taken me a lot longer than I anticipated but I'm determined to finish up these last two segments today. I have to drive back to Grand Rapids to help out at the boutique Saturday, Sunday and Monday. I'm sure you don't want to wait until Tuesday for the rest of the story.

We have the outside of the bag together. Isn't it awesome? We've made two beautiful handles and we need some lining for this baby.

You can press all those seams on the outside of your bag now. If you carefully rotate it around the narrow end of your ironing board you'll be able to get to them all. I like to press the twisted seams in the direction making the point where the stitching lines cross each other at the top edge visible. That's the 1/2" seam allowance which will join the bag to the lining and I don't want to cut off the points on my squares as I stitch around the top.

We'll be working with the two squares you cut for your single fabric lining. As you can see, the selvage is still on my squares. Many fabrics today don't give you a full 45" width. Unless your selvage is exceptionally wide it will work just fine. The selvage is hidden when we sew the lining pieces together. I guess I'd rather have a smidgen of selvage showing rather than buy an extra 5/8 yard of fabric.

With right sides together, using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew around three sides of the lining squares leaving a 5" opening on one side. Clip lower corners diagonally. Press seams open. I realize my lining looks slightly different than yours. I don't usually add batting or interfacing the these bags. I like to be able to fold them up and tuck them in my purse but I wanted this one to have some extra body so I added fusible interfacing to the lining.

To shape the bottom of the bag, with right sides together, bring one side seam of the lining to the bottom seam. It's important to match the seam lines and pin in place.

Measure from the point 7 3/8" along the folds and mark a dot on each side.

Draw a line from dot to dot across the corner. Pin the two layers together to keep them from shifting. Stitch on the line, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam. Repeat for opposite side of lining.

Press the corner points toward each other and tack to the bottom seam. If you are using heavyweight fabric, trim off the points 1/2" from seam line to reduce bulk. If you do want the extra body, they can be tacked to the bottom seam too. In this case I'm tacking mine.

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6 Responses to “So Sew Easy Schlep Bag – Part 6”

  1. Patti June 5, 2009 at 10:19 pm #

    If you keep the lining in one piece rather than cutting into two pieces, you can save one inch of width that is consumed in the seam allowances. Then you just need one piece that is 22-1/4 tall and 43-1/2 wide, which should avoid the issue with the selvages.

  2. Lorraine June 9, 2009 at 6:28 am #

    Excellent instructions…and yes, it sure does take a much longer time to write them and photo each step. Your doing a great job! Thanks for taking the time.

  3. Pat June 9, 2009 at 12:13 pm #

    Hi Gay,

    Thanks for the tutorial on the Schlep Bag. Love making it. All kinds of ideas for gifts!!

    Is there a part 7 for the bag—–putting on the handles and lining?

    Thanks for keeping us quilting with all your great ideas.



  4. Glenda June 13, 2014 at 3:31 pm #

    I am confused on the lining part. I am not sure what to do after you draw a 7 3/8 line. Do you have a tutorial I could watch…..Thank you..

  5. Gay July 9, 2014 at 11:29 am #

    You can find that information in Part 6 of the tutorial – So Sew Easy Schlep Bag – Part 6

  6. Dora May 25, 2018 at 11:02 am #

    I’m a lil confused, I’m a beginner so do I stitch the 2 points together on the seam or across it?

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