Back Basting Tutorial For Hand Applique
December 10th, 2008 by Gay
I was lucky enough to be introduced to this fantastic technique while attending one of the Dear Jane retreats in Shipshewana, Indiana. Diane Rode Schneck
who teaches at The City Quilter in New York city was our teacher. At first I questioned the practicality of this method but have found it to be one of the best techniques I’ve ever learned. It has totally changed he way I do hand appliqué and greatly speeded up the process.
While tallying the results of a survey I took in Spring 2008 I discovered there were lots of quilters who had no idea what “back basting” was and hope this tutorial will explain the process without making it sound complicated because it isn’t. Sorry, no professional photos in this “tute” as I quickly snapped pictures while working on a block during my breaks at work. I think you’ll get the idea.
For this tutorial I’ll be using a block I drew for the 4 1/2″ Midget Blocks. It is Block 87
You’ll need a reversed drawing of your appliqué design. I use this technique almost all the time so I draw my patterns on tracing paper. You can buy it in a variety of sizes, can see through it easily and by looking at the back side of your tracing your pattern can be seen in reverse without any extra work.
You can also scan the pattern into your computer and use software such as Photoshop or a word processing program to reverse the pattern. Most printers allow you to print mirror images and many copy machines offer you the option to print a mirror image.
I like to have vertical and horizontal markings identifying the center of the design for placement under my background fabric.
I like to cut my background fabric 1 1/2″ larger than the finished size of the block and trim it after the appliqué is completed. (remember to include your seam allowance when trimming)
Press the background square in quarters, with the right side inside, so you’ll have crisp fold lines to align with placement marks on the pattern.
Place your background square, with the right side of the fabric down, on top of the reversed copy of your appliqué pattern. Match the pressed fold lines to the quarter marks on your pattern. Pin in place to prevent shifting. Trace the entire appliqué pattern on the wrong side of your background square. I use a mechanical style #2 pencil for marking. Most times you can see through your background fabric. If you find that’s difficult, a light table can be used or tape the block to a window and let the sun shine through. I’ll talk about working on a dark background at the end of the tutorial.
You can number pattern with an appliqué order if you’d like. On simple designs like this I don’t usually do this.
For each appliqué shape you’ll need to cut a piece of fabric large enough to cover the area plus at least a 1/2″ for your seam allowance. I don’t like to waste fabric but I don’t want to cut a second piece because the first one wasn’t big enough. I look at each piece and mentally change it to a square or rectangle. It’s easier to judge how large to cut your piece of fabric. I always err on the side of having too much rather than not enough.
Pin the appliqué piece to the right side of your background fabric positioning it over the area to be appliquéd. I hold the fabrics up to the light to make sure I have enough fabric showing around the pattern area for my seam allowance. An Ott light or daylight lamp aids in seeing through the fabric. Add additional pins if necessary so your appliqué fabric doesn’t shift as we move on to our basting.
I like to use quilting thread in either dark brown or cream depending on which color will show up better on your appliqué fabric and a crewel needle. The exact size isn’t so important. I usually have a package of sizes 3/9 on hand. You want it to be a thicker needle.
Begin basting the appliqué piece in position by stitching exactly on the line drawn on the wrong side of the background fabric. There’s no need to start with a knot. I leave a 3/4″ long tail at the beginning.
My stitches are just over 1/8″ long. You don’t want them too small but you don’t want them as large as 1/4″ either.
The first leaf basted in place.
I am more comfortable marking my stitching line on each appliqué piece. On light fabrics I use a fine point, blue, washout marking pen. On dark fabrics, I use Clover’s white marking pen.
Cut around the basted shape leaving a scant 3/16″ seam allowance.
Remove the first couple of basting stitches and bring your needle up from the back of the appliqué piece right on the marked appliqué line. I appliqué left handed so the direction of my stitching will look backwards to many of you.
Begin your needle-turn appliqué stitching. As you feel yourself getting too close to the next basting stitches, remove two or three more.
The first leaf is complete!
The second leaf basted in position.
Because the tulip and leaf don’t overlap each other both pieces can be basted, trimmed and ready to stitch.
After appliquéing the second leaf and tulip, baste the stem and circle in position. Trim excess fabric leaving your seam allowance.
The completed block.
As you can see, my stitching strayed from the line on the left side of stem and the first leaf. Because there are no markings on the front side of the block it doesn’t cause a problem.
I usually make my circles using Karen Kay Buckley’s Perfect Circles but with back basting you can stitch a pretty smooth circle if your drawn circle on the background has smooth edges.
WORKING WITH A DARK BACKGROUND
Using the reversed copy of your pattern, pin the design to the wrong side of your background fabric leaving an opening to slide a piece of light color (white or yellow) transfer paper under the design. Using a pencil, stylus or ball point pen, trace over the design on the paper to transfer it to the background fabric.
Transfer paper is available as most fabric stores
Because a dark background is difficult to see through I use pins to identify the general shape of the section so I know where to pin my appliqué piece on the right side of the fabric.
Continue following the previous instructions.
Gayle,
I really read through your instructions and I think maybe I can do this. I cant wait to try it. I’m curious to see how overlapping will be to do and how it will look. Thanks for all you do for us.
Lexie
You did a good job.. this willl work!
I don’t take the time (read: have the patience) to applique, but I did learn this method years ago. I think you did a great job explaining it!
Hi Gayle, I check out your site everyday. The backbasting tutorial is excellent. I did run into a problem, probably because I am on dial-up but nothing came through after you applique the stem on. Is there anyway you could put this in pdf form. I know how busy you are with closing the store and just keeping up with the snow so it’s certainly not a rush request. More important that you keep safe.
Gayle,
Hi,I just read thru you instructions for back basting and I too think I can do this type of applique. Thanks so very much for having this on your website.
Peggy
Gay,
Thuis is the best tutorial on back basting, I have seen. I am able now to do applique, using the back basting method. I do have to have the fabrics flat on a surface in order to stitch.
Thank you very much. Jeane
Hi Gayle, I really think this form of applique is an easier way to work with shapes. Thank you very for your directions. They are very informative.
great idea to back baste but what do you do when things overlap say in a complicated flower applique. can you help
Very interesting method! I will have to try it out sometime… Will post a link to it on my blog…
Thanks for the tutorial!
WOW!!! This is great! I love applique and slowly am working through your Midget Blocks and this will work great. A sure way to get them right and especially for small blocks. Thank you so much and hope you are all together and well soon. Hugs,
Thank you so much, you can´t imagine how I appreciate the information you gave us all, I´m a begginer, so haven´t any clue about.
Gayle,
I must stand and cheer with the rest of the gals about this tutorial. I was given a brief explanation of this technique. I was very intrigued by it so decided to “google” back basting applique. You came up right off the top. Good job. Thanks yet again for wonderful instruction.
Gayle: Your instructions are fantastic. I have wanted to try this technique for a long time, but I haven’t found the other instructions I’ve found to be as clear and helpful. Thank you!
I love backbasting–have made lots of quilts with this method. One suggestion–I trace the pattern right side up on rough side of freezer paper with a fine point permanent marker, line up center marks with fabric creases, iron it on right side. Then I put it on the light box to trace on back of background fabric.
Where can I find the “twists” on the schlep bag?
Julie
Oooo… this is cool! I had never heard of back basting before seeing it on the That Quilt blog, and Anina directed me here. I’m so glad she did! I can’t wait to give this a try. Thank you for the tutorial!
This is definitely the best tutorial available. Thank you for your time. My only concern is what happens to the overlapping pieces. On something more complicated, I don’t understand how you can see through the materials to baste. Maybe I just need to try it and see, but it sure looks easier then what I’m doing now.
Hi this is such a great tutorial, I have been collecting tutorials and doing some on my site as well…thanks so much for these great specifics and close up shots – really well done.
Valerie
Hi, Gayle,
Thanks for taking the time to make this tutorial. It’s the first one that makes sense. I’m a lefty, too, and I think the others got lost in “translation”. The pictures are very clear and really help. You did a great job!
Lu Anne
Hi, Gayle,
Really great instructions, especially that it makes even more sense to this “lefty” , tried to do this before after being shown by the right handed world, I think that this is going to make all the difference for me…definately trying it again…thanks very much,
Karen
Hi Gayle
I have ben using this technique since a friend sent me your link a few months ago. I ABSOLUTELY love it!!!! Quick, easy and straight forward; no templates, etc. I have one question though… how do you do shapes with sharp inward facing points as in the topside of a heart?? Do you snip, or avoid these shapes?? Mine smooth out to a roundish curve rather than a sharp point.
Many thanks for your website and patterns.
[...] never tried back basting to take a look at the detailed instructions on how it’s done HERE. I always draw my patterns on tracing paper so I can easily see the reverse image of the pattern by [...]
[...] an appliqué block to include as part of the Midget Blocks. I also used this block to do a Back Basting Tutorial for you. You should give the technique a try. It’s totally changed the way I do hand appliqué [...]
[...] “official” name as far as I know, but some people call it “back-basting.” This tutorial explains it pretty well. Basically, you draw an outline on the back, baste along it, then remove [...]
This site was sent to me by a friend, and I have only just tried needleturn applique, so I am going to give it a go. It sound great and easy to follow thanks Barb
I really enjoyed your back basting tutorial and feel I can attempt this with good results. One other posting mentioned ‘checking every day’ for your lastest posting. Could I get on that list? Thanks. Judith DuBose
Hi thanks for sharing your backbasting. I have tried 3 different methods of needleturn applique & yours looks great. Can’t wait to try it. Having a system that saves time is an extra bonus.
Genevieve Jackson
Australia (downunder)
[...] about a little applique? This is a cute and easy block to work on. If you haven’t tried the Back Basting technique yet here’s your chance. Once I tried it I was hooked. Our 5th Midget Mania block [...]